I just received a dual-pak of MagicShine lights -- one 1000 lumen and one 1600 lumen.  My TrailTech MR11 HID is about 4+ years old, and while it still puts out a pretty nice beam, I'd been thinking about replacing it -- my night vision isn't the greatest, so "prison searchlight quality" is desired...  I had read some very positive reviews about the MagicShine (and the GeoManGear company) on the BikeJournal WIBT thread, from people doing commuting, so I checked out their website http://www.geomangear.com/ .
 
The MagicShine lights use CREE XM-L emitters, and have high/med/low settings.  I decided to get the Dual pack after discovering that besides the sale price they're taking an additional 20% off the top during the first part of December -- so if I want to, I can have both a handlebar mounted and a helmet mounted light.  So I have what appear to be two excellent, very bright lights, for about $200 total...
 
I'll take a couple photos to try to show the light patterns -- the 1000 lumen is a single LED, and the 1600 lumen unit is a four-LED, and throws a nice wide field.  I think these lights are gonna be AWESOME...

I scrounged Dave a Fastback Toolpouch for his F5 which he likes.  I also got a pair of Shimano WM-61 womens shoes (mtb) that are super!  Far more comfortable than my old Specialized mtb shoes.
 
 
As far as Magicshine lights, just understand what you are getting into with Lithium ion battery packs and how you need to treat them, and what their inherent dangers are.  Read here for an idea of what can go wrong with Li-Ions...
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?107-Smoke-and-Fire-Hot-Cell s-and-Close-Calls-The-dangerous-side-of-batteries
 
and a general guide to Li-Ions here.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?235164-Using-Li-ion-cells-in- LED-flashlights-safely&highlight=magic+shine

Quote from rmillay on Dec 8^th, 2011, 4:36pm:

 
Bob, I noticed you were a little bit faster on the Clown Ride this morning. It must have had something to do with that color coordination thing.  

Quote from rmillay on Dec 8^th, 2011, 5:02pm:

 
Don't forget the playing card in the spokes....    

Quote from FlyingLaZBoy on Dec 9^th, 2011, 11:29am:

 
Paul - lets get together one evening in the near future - maybe this week - and do a cruise around Rowlett.  I'd like to check out the effectiveness of your setup.  I need something more than my pitty sub 100 lumen light I feel.  Let me tell you - upper 20s with < 100 lumen light is exciting!!!

Just remember, it's rude to look someone in the eye when your helmet mounted Klieg is turned on! I've got a set of Dinotte lights on my Xstream, and I like them pretty well. The tail light is awesome, and the headlight is good up to about 15 MPH before it starts to feel like I'm over driving it.

Quote from jdviz on Dec 13^th, 2011, 12:46pm:

 
JD, if you happen to be at WRL between 1:00 and 4:00 PM on Tuesdays and Thursdays, look for some of us Clown riders either hanging out at Sunset Bay or doing bonus Lake laps. Better yet, if you can take a full Tuesday or Thursday off, come have breakfast at Barbecs and ride with us.  
 
Jay G.  

Quote from jdviz on Dec 14^th, 2011, 6:32pm:

 
No, we normally ride clockwise. The day we met, Tony W. and I had seen you and your wife riding counterclockwise past Sunset Bay and gave chase. We spotted y'all on the high road and waited at the Culture Center for y'all to come down the access road.

Quote from TonyWard on Dec 20^th, 2011, 10:15pm:

 
I use medium weight acrylic or wool socks. The warmers are adhered to the bottom of the socks at the toes. The instructions indicate they are intended to function in an oxygen restricted environment.
 
My toes get cold even during the Summer in a air conditioned room. The "Toasti Toes" warmers keep them comfortable in the cold weather we are now experiencing. When it's really cold, I use shoe covers in addition to the warmers. They are not going to feel hot when you're wearing them, because their average operating temperature listed by the manufacturer is 96 degrees F.

Yesterday I bought 10 2.1 Ah NiMH cells and a switch, today I bought a light unit to add to the other light unit I already had on hand to make Honkin' Huge Taillight II The Doubling^tm. Twice the light output with half the current draw, from a battery that had 70% more energy storage in 1/3 the weight than the original Honkin' Huge Taillight^tm. I have a light that can run 2 nights straight through the Winter Solstice, or all 3 nights of the Summer Solstice, on a single charge.
 
Mrs. the Poet pronounces it as "too bright, it gives me a headache". Blind people give it 2 thumbs up. Coming soon to a night ride near you.

Removed and cleaned the chain on the Xstream as year-end maintenance, at 6500+ miles over two years, and after cleaning it took the feeler (Go/NoGo) gauge to it... I was a bit surprised to get readings from 0.75% to 1.0%, since about 500 miles ago I was only getting 0.75% in the occasional location -- but a lot of the last 500 miles has been night/trail riding, with more dust and stuff being thrown up, so I guess it accelerated things a bit.
 
So, I laid out the dough for three new SRAM 970 chains, through Performance...

Quote from FlyingLaZBoy on Jan 2^nd, 2012, 9:54pm:

 
Paul, I was confused at first when I read you were using a "feeler" gage to judge chain wear. I was thinking leaf-type thickness gage, commonly known as a feeler gage. Did a little research and found out you used a bike chain specific wear gage (sometimes called a feeler gage, depending upon the design) that puts the chain in tension and measures wear in percentage. What brand gage are you using?
 

Quote from jcsadowski on Jan 3^rd, 2012, 9:39pm:

 
John, this is a perfect example of why you are Clown #1.  

Quote from FlyingLaZBoy on Jan 4^th, 2012, 7:19am:

 
Paul, I think I gave the wrong impression with my comment. I have never used a chain wear gage before, and was not familiar with how they worked and the units of measurement of the .75 and 1.00 readings. The intent of my comment was to relate to others, who may have been as much in the dark as I was, what I had learned. Now that I have several "keeper" bikes, I'm going to have to pick up one of these gages the next time I go to Performance. By the way a webpage for a gage of similar design to the Spin Doctor gage lists it as a "feeler" gage.    

Quote from jayg on Jan 4^th, 2012, 9:27am:

 
Well pointed out, Jay!  I modified my earlier posts to put "%" after the numbers...  Of course, it doesn't say that on the gauge itself, either!!!   The concept as I understand it (courtesy of the late great Sheldon Brown, my namesake), is that as the roller pins wear, the link centers essentially move further apart under tension, and don't precisely match up with the sprocket teeth any more, eventually resulting in additional tooth wear on the sprocket...  and if the sprocket gets too worn, the old chain will start to slip, and a new one will really slip...  http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
 
At the bottom of the Sheldon Brown article, there is a link to a very cool article on chain wear and measurement gauges, that shows that most gauges give a greater wear indication than is actual...  http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html#shimano-tl-cn40
 
Paul

The 10-speed drivetrain on my Carbent has not shifted crisply in the rear since the bike was new. It was originally equipped with Dura Ace bar end shifters and Shimano Ultegra road bike front and rear derailleurs. Since I have had such good luck with the 10-speed SRAM Rival drivetrain on my Musashi, I replaced the right shifter with a SRAM TT-500 bar end, the rear derailleur with a SRAM Rival unit, and the Shimano cassette with a SRAM cassette. Still experienced some shifting problems. My latest attempt to improve the situation was to replace the bar end shifters with SRAM X.9 trigger shifters. In conjunction with the shifter change had to replace the Bacchetta long-reach handlebar with a RANS B-41 handlebar for leg clearance. The Ultegra road bike front derailleur was of course not compatible with the SRAM "Exact Shift" trigger shifter (The large lever on the shifter wouldn't even budge the derailler's lever arm). I solved that problem by fabricating a 15 mm extension for the lever arm. Shifts easily, now, and indexes properly. The rear derailleur upshifts fine, but downshifting against the spring pressure is not completely satisfactory, as I sometimes have to actuate the shifter lever again to center the chain on the cogs. My next step will be to replace the large diameter shifting cable with a smaller diameter one (Might be binding). If that doesn't work, may try a SRAM X.0 derailleur. A continuing saga. Oh well, at least I don't have bar ends poking me in the stomach when I make sharp turns.  
 
 

RANS B-41 handlebar, SRAM X.9 trigger shifters, and foam grips
 
 

Comparision of Bachetta long reach handlebar with RANS B-41 handlebar
 
 

Completed trigger shifter installation    

...got three SRAM 971 chains (114 links each) for the Xstream...  each comes with its own quicklink, so to create the 270-link chain (the old chain measured 135", although the "official" RANS spec page says 134"), I only had to break apart one of them - which leaves enough behind so that I only have to buy two when I change out the chain on Terrie's StratusXP one of these days...   And let's just say there was a lot of counting of links to make sure I had it right...
 

Quote from Bud_Bent on Jan 9^th, 2012, 8:58am:

 
 
Actually, I misspoke (mistyped)...  I should have said there were 270 (135") links on the old chain, although the RANS spec calls for 268 (134")...    

The Garmin Edge 305 arrived.  Sheesh!  It is microscopic!  It's no bigger than an old candybar phone, with a similarly small screen.  I am not so sure it will work well for ME, but Dave seems to be able to see/read the screen well enough.  But his eyes are better'n mine too.

Just for starters...Hostel Shoppe and Calhoun cycle.

Quote from esbee on Jan 13^th, 2012, 5:26pm:

As much as I hate the place, WalMart usually has that size for kids' bikes.

Got the Catrike chain tensioner in the mail yesterday and put it on the 700 while the SOTU was on  Wasn't too difficult, except for the three-handed part.  Also put on an alternate set of pedals, which Kathy can get into a little better.  We'll give it another test when the weather clears.

You mean like White Out? I've seen that used as spoke dope in the past.
 
Quote from Denman on Jan 22^nd, 2012, 9:58pm:

Got new tires for the Formula today.  I hate to replace tires that show hardly any wear, but the Primo Comets have gotten several flats from insignificant looking stickers.  The Schwalbe Marathon Races should provide better protection with only a minor weight penalty.

Installed Vuelta wheels and SECA tires.  
 
It may be heavy - but it sure does look pretty sweet!

Quote from jayg on Jan 29^th, 2012, 10:22am:

 
 
I bet Jay can make it go fast though>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Quote from Monkeywrangler22 on Jan 25^th, 2012, 11:14pm:

 
This was more like a light green viscous liquid, almost like thick locktite.   Probably a little more water resistant then White out.
 
 

Quote from FlyingLaZBoy on Jan 30^th, 2012, 12:13pm:

 
Thanks, Paul. I weighed my stock X-Stream the other day with bags, tools, and no water. Weight was 30 lbs 8 oz. It's one pound lighter than my Musashi.  

I had to do it!  I checked my Catrike 700 today and weighed it at 36 pounds, without tools or water.  It is listed as 34 lbs. as sold, though it comes with pedals.  Those are steel, though, and probably weigh slightly more than the clunky aluminum ones on it now.  So the bags, spares, lights, bottle cage, heavy duty tyre, dirt, and computers add about two pounds.  

OKOKOKOK!!! You all should be happy, I have never weighted my bike cause I knew it was heavy but I did! With all my tools, spare tubes, rack, fenders,faring, pump, computer,big wheels and tires, water bottles with water, camera,sun screen, head light, tail lights 2 bags and comb the Gold Rush was at 50 pounds!!!! I hope you all are happy!!! Go Clowns!!!    See me tomorrow!!

Quote from kenbent6 on Feb 1^st, 2012, 7:18pm:

 
 
Well, you know what the problem is, don't you?  It's that industrial size bottle of sun screen...  

Yet another new back light.  Its about the 4th in 800 miles.  I had the lights mounted on 10" tall stand mounted on the rack but they kept breaking the plastic mounting thing on the light.  OK so this time I removed the stand and mounted it directly on the rack.
 
Also ordered a pair of Schwalbe Tryker tires.  According to folks on BROL they're supposed to be radials, and slightly faster then the Marathon Racers that came on my Expedition.  I suppose I'll find out, and after a hundred miles or so I'll post my impressions.
 
Hopefully we'll be putting in the order for my wife's Expedition over the next two weeks, I'll give a shout when that happens.

Two new purchases this week. First, I've upgraded my heart rate monitor to the RCX5. Look for a review from me in a week or so.
 

 
Second, after I got 3 flats in a row on the Santa Fe Trail last Saturday, I finally broke down and bought an up-armored version.
 

Buy a Gatorskin, but get the 25mm wide version. It gives a little better ride overall. Who knew 2mm would make a noticeable difference, but it does! Gatorskins are laced with carbon fiber and are puncture resistant. Not proof, but resistant. They have a foldable version for $60+, or a wire bead version for $40 (which is the one I bought).
 
http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/race/ racetyres/gatorskin/gatorskin_en.html

Just got a new pair of Schwalbe Tryker tires.  I'll mount them on Saturday after running a few comparison tests on the 800 mile Marathon Racers on my Expedition.
 
Heard comments that the Trykers were radials.  They aren't.
 
Schwalbe hasn't said offered much technical discussion about them but their marketing staff has spun a few tales.  I suppose the only way to know is to let the rubber meet the road.
 
I'll post an update after riding them a bit.
 
BTW, they only come in 20".

Tested the new pair of Schwalbe Trykers on my Expedition.  Too much wind to get meaningful comparison numbers to the Marathon Racers, but...
 
The Strykers are fabulous!!!
 
At 80 PSI they roll like 110 PSI tires!
 
A bit stiffer then the Marathon Racers, with handling improvements in all the right ways.

Quote:

 
You got a whole trike? instead of tires, that is special

Quote from jcsadowski on Feb 27^th, 2012, 12:13pm:

 
 
I know someone who did that once - but with a car  

Lots of fun stuff showed up today!  The 2 B&M Cyclestar mirrors and 2 Spoke-Fix kits from PeterWhite Cycles, anoother Dinotte 140L red rear 4xAA tail light for Dave's MTB for commuting, and the occasional brevet on the bents, and just for me, my vermilion Revison Sawfly lens for my sunglasses!  When it's too bright out for the clear lens, and too overcast for the smoke gray lens, this vermilion lens is PERFECT!

We got a Cygolite Expilion 400 & a nightrider light inbound.  Dave was able to rig a way to make an SKS Commuter fender work on his Rans F5.

Bought another Catrike Expedition, Electric Blue for my wife.  Should be ready to pick up today.  After we bring it home I'll probably spend a few hours fine tuning it and hopefully we can get some riding in depending on the weather.

Ordered a 5-bolt 22T chain ring for the carbon, triple road bike crankset installed on my Musashi. Guess what? A 22T ring won't fit a road bike triple crankset. It has a 58mm bolt circle diameter. The smallest ring that will fit is a 26T with a 74 mm bolt circle diameter. Purchased a 26T ring from Dallas Bike Works and installed it this morning. Rode to Flag Pole Hill at WRL, early this afternoon, to test the new ring out in conjunction with the 10-speed 12/27, close-ratio cassette installed on the bike. Did a standing start climb in the 26T ring and 27T cassette cog (26 gear-inches for the combo). I'm in good physical condition, but my legs were fatigued and I was breathing hard by the time I reached the top of the hill. If I was going to do Lancaster or Muenster on the Musashi, I would probably install its stock 10-speed 11/32 cassette (21.9 gear-inches for 26T/32T combo).
 

 
Installed 26T ring.
 

 
Bottom of Flag Pole Hill at WRL.

Quote from Bud_Bent on Mar 16^th, 2012, 8:27pm:

 
I stand corrected. Wish I had known that. I'm going to have to be more thorough in my research efforts.

Quote from jayg on Mar 16^th, 2012, 6:01pm:

 
1) The terms "recumbent" and "standing start" are mutually exclusive;
 
2) If you're NOT breathing hard at the top of Flagpole Hill, you're a very unusually fit person -- even if you're climbing it at 4mph the whole way...  

Quote from jayg on Mar 17^th, 2012, 4:22pm:

 
 
Uh, oh, 'dissing' the Muenster hills...  you bad boy...  

Quote from Ric_Clark on Mar 18^th, 2012, 8:51pm:

 
When are we going to triple the crankset on your bike, so you won't need a tow?

Vicky and I ordered a GoPro Hero HD Motorsports camera.  We've been wanting to video some rides and we also figured it would work nicely to document some of the less than polite drivers I encounter on my commute.
 
Semper Fi

Had some spare parts in my parts box, so I decided to turn my 2007 Catrike Speed into an "R Spec" trike. The Catrike R Spec option consists of a SRAM "Rival" 10-speed group - compact crank, TT 500 bar end shifters, front derailleur, chain, rear derailleur, and 11-32 cassette.  
 
Finished the conversion late this afternoon and rode to WRL to test the trike out. The R Spec group is the same group as installed on a stock Musashi. The stock Musashi is the best shifting bike I've ridden, and the trike performed equally well.  Climbed Flag Pole Hill at 6 mph in the 34/32 combination (27.6 gear inches). Experienced moderate leg discomfort and was a little out of breath when I topped the hill. I wouldn't ride Lancaster or Muenster with this gearing, however, it is perfect for WRL. Got the trike up to 26.7 mph in the 50/11 combo and had plenty of gear left.
 
Why did I do this? Because, I had run out of projects. Now I'm out of projects, again..........
 
 

 
R Spec components and locking brake handles.
 
 

 
R Spec Speed w/Utah Trikes' 26" rear wheel conversion kit.

I didn't buy it but yesterday I was given a maillot jeune. USPS era replica size L.

Well - I would have bought one of those awesome lights that Paul started this thread about.  But I guess I waited too long  http://www.geomangear.com/index.html
 
Now the search is back on for a super bright headlight that won't break the bank.

Bought some replacement pads for my Corsa in preperation for my trip across Oklahoma.  Figured the old ones weren't working as good as they could  have so based on Jay's recommendation I ordered these  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJZ0Q2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
 
After trying them out yesterday I managed to inadvertently lock up the back wheel while going down a hill in the upper 20's.  I was trying to see how well they worked and obviously they work pretty well as I ended up with a nice flat spot in my tire after laying down rubber for about 20 feet.  Guess I'll be buying a new tire soon too.

Quote from FlyingLaZBoy on Apr 24^th, 2012, 7:57am:

 
Ordered mine from here:  http://www.action-led-lights.com/collections/bike/products/mj-872-1600-lumen-lig ht-set
 
Expecting delivery Wednesday - then I'll be ready to light up the night!

Nice!

Quote from FlyingLaZBoy on Apr 24^th, 2012, 8:56am:


 
NICE BIKE, but Rothgeb is still d-a-m-n ugly!

Quote from Rat Rider on Apr 27^th, 2012, 8:15am:

 
Now THAT'S funny!!!!       Is this a case of "Seller's Remorse"????
 
PB

Quote from FlyingLaZBoy on Apr 27^th, 2012, 10:25am:

 
Paul,  
 
This is not funny. It is therapy.

Two things.
Lezayne micro floor pump.  Ez mount and no leaks on the presta valve.  80+ psi no problem.
 
Michelin City 26x1.85 tire for the Expedition.
Heavyweight at 897 grams.
Rolls very fast.

In the realm of "too much bike sh..stuff" - I submit the following http://www.purelycustom.com/c-98-1-18-aluminum-headset-spacers.aspx , which I have purchased for one of my bikes.

Quote from freakflyer9999 on May 6^th, 2012, 5:56pm:

 
Kenny,
I'm very happy to hear your wife found a trike she loves.  I wish you both many miles of enjoyable riding.
Richard

Dave. I maybe interested in the carbon seat if you decide you don't like it.

We actually bought this a few days ago, but am just now getting to the library...no net way up in the Rockies!  So Kim is now the new owner (3rd owner, by best available data) of Catrike Speed #36.  2003 model, with very low miles, less than 200 by all accounts.  Excellent condition, and we also got a bag full of extras: fenders, extra tie rod, extra handle bars, extra head rest, 2 BRAND NEW seats!  It's gonna be fun times when we get back to where the oxygen is!!
 
Pics to follow when we get home.

Bought a couple pairs of these from Aerotech, along with the "CleanRide" chain lube...
 

Snapped up Dave's bike today.  Planning to hopefully turn it into my brevet and bad weather bike and start saving the carbent for the fast group rides.