You never cease to amaze me Jay!  Remind me not to try and race you on the trike.  Will be expecting a report on top speed soon!!

A 52 chainring would be an easy fix.
 
Since Trikes are not registered the cheapest insurance is bailout and make a run for it.

Finished installing the wiring and motor drive unit today. Will program the display and test ride the trike (If the system works) tomorrow. Replaced the stock chain guard with a 52T chainring,  
so the trike now has two chainrings. A typical installation has only a single 42T chainring. A 42T ring provides a decent top speed for a trike with a 700c rear wheel, but not for the Speed with its much smaller 406 rear wheel. The trike has a ten-speed, 11-28 cassette installed on the rear wheel. Shifting is accomplished via an Archer electronic shifter.  Running 349 x 40 mm Scorcher tires up front, and a 406 x 40 mm Scorcher at the rear.
 
 

 
Note how small the motor/gear/controller housing is.                                                                                           This is the super stealthy side. Hard for a rider being passed to tell it's an E-trike.

Rode the Speed 17.8 miles at WRL and on the SoPac and Ridgewood Trails. Just before I entered the Ridgewood Trail from the SoPac, the horizontal carbon tube, upon which the Tongsheng display, throttle, and rear view  mirror are mounted, broke off the mount's vertical carbon tube. The high tensile strength adhesive I used to join the horizontal and vertical carbon tubes obviously has very little fatigue resistance. Made a duct tape repair at Craig B's house and continued riding with Craig. Think I will rejoin the tubes with epoxy adhesive and an overwrap of epoxy-saturated fiberglass cloth.
 
Just like I read prior to purchasing the Tongsheng drive, I still got a workout riding the Speed. The biggest benefit I noticed was the satisfying boost it gave when I was climbing hills. The amount of boost is determined by the amount of torque applied to the crank axle. The throttle proved beneficial when my left knee started stinging, and I had to use it to get back to the lake parking lot where my van was parked. Got the trike up to 19 mph (indicated on the display) using only the throttle. The speed and mileage indicated on the display are not precise, because a mounted tire's actual circumference can't be entered during setup. Just a generic wheel diameter can be entered.  Got the Speed up to 22 mph (indicated on my Garmin computer) on the SoPac flats. I've reached 24 to 25 mph at the same location on my Aero trike. I may not have been riding the Speed at the maximum power level. I'll be doing sprints at maximum boost in the future.  After riding almost 18 miles the battery charge indicator was still showing a full charge. The Tongsheng drives are supposed to be kinder to batteries than Bafang drives. The drive is quiet. It doesn't give itself away by emitting a high-pitched whine. I'm liking the Tongsheng, so far.
 
Don't know what the cost of a Tongsheng basic DIY installation would be, because I purchased excess components and fabricated a couple in my shop. I'm thinking it would be somewhere between $1,300 and $1,500. Wasn't as daunting task as I expected. Very little instructions are furnished with the drive components. Fortunately, there are plenty on the Net. A wealth of info and components can be found on ECO Cycles' website.

Quote from aikigreg on Jan 18^th, 2021, 2:23pm:

 
Definitely got a workout on the trike today, fighting high head winds. My legs had had it after just 31 miles of riding, mostly in Level 2 of 4 levels of assist. Average speed was a couple of mph faster than if I had been riding my unassisted Aero trike.

Made some improvements to the E-Speed this afternoon. Replaced the 406 mm rear wheel and 40 mm Scorcher tire with the trike's original 451 mm wheel and a 28 mm Panaracer Minit Lite tire. Should increase the trike's top speed from 22 to 24 mph. Since the display on the 48 volt battery that powers the trike only gives a general idea of its charge status, I added an $8 Chinese digital voltmeter to the trike. Now I can tell the exact status of the battery at a glance. Typical 48 v Hailong battery voltage at full charge is 54.6 v. Cutoff voltage is 36.4 v.
 
Don't know what's with Chinese manufacturers of electronic products. Just like the Tongsheng drive system, the voltmeter didn't come with a wiring diagram. It had 3 wires coming out of it - red, black, and yellow. Red is typically + and black -. The red and black wires should be all that is needed to check D.C. voltage. Well, not with the this voltmeter. The red and yellow wires have to be joined together on the positive side and the black wire on the negative, or the voltmeter won't work. A simple wiring diagram would have helped save me 30 minutes of time.
 
 

 
451 mm rear wheel w/28 mm tire.                                                                                                                     Digital voltmeter below water bottle. Voltage is 53.9 v, after 20 miles of riding at Level 2 of 4.

After I made the above post, I experienced a lot of pain in my right leg, just below the knee, and in my right hip, that lasted into the night. Never happened before, so there's definitely an ergonometric problem with the Tongsheng drive, as installed, when it comes to my body. I'm used to a Q-Factor of 160 mm when riding with Eggbeater pedals. The Q-Factor of the Tongsheng drive is 210 mm, plus the crank arms' centerline is offset 10 mm to the right. Called Utah Trikes and found out they can alter a Catrike boom to center up the drive unit. Problem is their custom fabrication shop is stacked up with work, so they wouldn't be able to work on a boom for about a month. Will have to mothball the Speed, and go back to riding my Aero trike. If my body won't tolerate a 210 mm Q-Factor, after I install the new boom, the Tongsheng drive will be history. In that case the only option will be to install a rear motor drive on the trike. I already have a battery, so I wouldn't take that big a hit in the pocketbook.
 
 

Rode the trike 33.7 miles today. Have ridden 150 miles without having to recharge the battery. Battery voltage is now 46.4 v. Battery charge indicator on control panel is showing 4 out of 6 bars. Could possibly get 200 miles out of a charge, but not going to try it. Currently recharging the battery.
 
The throttle has failed, mechanically. For some reason it has locked up. No instructions in the boxes on who to contact, if there is a problem. Guess I will order a replacement from ECO Cycles. A new throttle costs only $10. Shipping is free.

Tested the 60T chain ring today at WRL. Got the Speed up to 29.5 mph on West Lawther. That's 2 mph faster than I was able to achieve with the 58T ring. Might be able to top 30 mph with max effort and assist level set at 4 of 4 (Turbo).

Yesterday, mileage on the drive exceeded 3,000. It's still operating perfectly. I've seen recommendations on line to not fully charge the drive's battery, because it shortens its life. I've been charging the 48v Hailong Shark battery fully, because the higher the voltage, the better the drive performs. The fully-charged voltage is 55.1. So far, it's been consistently charging to this voltage.

Quote from jayg on Jul 30^th, 2021, 9:29am:

 
For what its worth:
I recently had a discussion with a AA Mechanic about Lithium Batteries which they use on their aircraft. He is telling me to keep them fully charged for long life. There seems to be a lot of opinions about these batteries.

Spent yesterday in the Mosquito Works, replacing the defective original controller with a new motor controller I purchased from ECO Cycles. Wasn't as simple as I thought it was gong to be, but the installation went well. Dropped one of the tiny screws on the pavement. Couldn't locate it visually, nor could I find if when I swept the  area with a large diameter magnet. Had to get a replacement from ACE Hardware, which wasted about 45 minutes. Put the drive back together and installed all the cables. Now it was time to power the drive up and go for a test ride. Pushed the "power button" and, uh oh, "Error Code 3" appeared on the display. Looked up the error code in the display manual. Oh no! Error Code 3 is "Controller Failure". So I replaced a semi-working controller with a dead controller. Back to the drawing board. Next time I replace the controller, I won't complete the full installation, until I verify it's working properly.

I'm gonna have to check out the BROL thread on ins. My insurance guy rolls his eyes at ebikes.  
The only things I have found are motorcycle level cost and I have too many bikes to make that attractive.
I had a roller skater run in front of me on an announced pass last week , and I shudder to think of what might have happened.
There are lots more punks on ebikes on the trail going 20+ with very little to suggest they have a remote clue
and I see that as foreboding re banning or PI  stalkers looking for a suit.