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My Big Bend trip - May 3rd to May 9th (Read 713 times)
square_corners
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My Big Bend trip - May 3rd to May 9th
May 14th, 2015, 11:01am
 
I guess I'd posted 3 days before on the regular thread but we had some poor wi-fi connections and I wasn't able to post again. So to avoid cluttering up the regular thread, I'll start a new one and repost the first 3 days as well, for continuity. I embellished descriptions on the 3 first days so if interested, they are worth a re-read.
 
May 3rd - Scenic loop to Locke Peak (McDonald observatory) including a loop around the Davis Mountains for 79 miles - climbing 5190; avg 13.9
weather: sunny, then scattered clouds, then T'storms over Davis Mountains; S wind @ 15 - 20; start 66, end 77, max 97
 
Yesterday's ride was a 79 mile loop to the west of Ft Davis. Included as a side trip on this loop was a trek to the top of Locke Peak, which is the location of the McDonald Observatory. The road ascending to the top is part of the Texas Highway System and the elevation of this peak makes this roadway the highest paved point one can reach in the state of Texas at 6791 ft. Of course, one could hike to higher elevations in Texas. There are peaks in the Davis Mountains up to 7800 ft and higher peaks elsewhere in Texas. From Mt Locke, we descended to the highways taking us on the scenic loop. Elevations ranged from 4800 ft to 6200 ft on the remainder of the course. There were thunderstorms over the peaks during the afternoon and rain threatened but none fell until after we were finished. Steepest gradient was on the climb to Mt Locke at 14% although we had a sustained stretch at 13%. On the scenic loop, I saw gradients up to 12%. It was all worthwhile, though, as we enjoyed spectacular scenery and a scattering of wild flowers different from any seen around the Dallas area. We had generous tailwind and daunting headwind as well and for every stiff climb there was a rewarding fast descent. The roads were rough chip seal however, and my max speed was about 41. The road was too rough to go much faster. Our hotel in Ft Davis was the Limpia Hotel, an awesome adobe hotel with stone veneer, opened in 1884. Our room was like a home within a hotel - 2 bedrooms, 2 entry ways, a full kitchen - all the appliances, all for $159. Of course our lodging was covered by the trip cost but they put us up in the best place in Ft Davis. I'd stay there anytime I'd be passing through that area.
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/764620244
 
May 4th - Ft Davis to Marfa by way of Alpine  for 57 miles - climbing 1650; avg 15.3
weather: scattered clouds; S wind @ 15 - 20; start 59, end 84; max 91
 
Today we rode from Ft Davis to Marfa by way of Alpine. It is possible to go a more direct route but the scenery was better this way. It was only 57 miles and 1650 ft of climbing but we had a very stiff headwind all the way to Alpine. Once we made the turn in Alpine, toward Marfa, we enjoyed mostly tailwind. The road surface changed, too, from rough chipseal to smooth. In spite of this being only 57 miles, it was a tough ride with all the headwind! When we arrived in Marfa, we were put up at another incredible hotel, the Paisano Hotel, built in 1930. At the time it was said to be the most elaborate accommodation between El Paso and San Antonio. The hotel fell into disuse sometime between the mid 20th century and 2001 when a new owner acquired it. The hotel has since been restored to its former glory. Our room had 2 king-sized beds, 2 full bathrooms, 3 closets, 2 entry ways, and loads of room. This is another place, if you are ever in Marfa, make a point of staying there. No other accommodation comes close, although another luxury hotel is being built. Marfa is desperately short of available rooms, so the new place will fill a real void. The Marfa lights are nearby (about 7 miles away). We didn't go - there was rain falling in that direction in the evening.
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/766386770
 
May 5th - Marfa to Presidio with lunch at the Shafter ghost town for 59 miles - climbing 1965; avg 15.6
weather: sunny skies; NW wind @ 15 - 20; start 59, end 97, max 97
 
Today we did another awesome ride, from Marfa to Presidio with a lunch stop in the ghost town of Shafter. Shafter was the location of the only silver mine in Texas. Mining could resume if the price of silver rises the requisite amount. This was possibly the easiest day we would have. After last night's storms blew threw, we awoke to clean skies and sharply defined scenery. This morning's low temperature was a refreshing 48 degrees and we had a brisk northwest wind. As we were heading directly south, this was good news! The profile of the ride included crossing several low mountain ranges which included lots of nice long rollers and a few steep climbs that necessitated the granny gear. But all of these climbs gave up a nice reward - awesome descents, fast speeds, and no difficulty from the strong cross-wind. Most of the climbs were actually made easier by tailwind although not all the climbs were like that. But nonetheless, It was a relatively easy ride, with most of the climbing coming in the first 42 miles. After that we had a 1500 ft drop to Presidio, which sits alongside the Rio Grande and the Mexican border. Temperatures in the highland areas were pleasant, in the 70s but our drop to the river put us in the heat - upper 90s to be exact. Unfortunately, Presidio has no awesome hotel like the last 2 days' stays. I imagine we are in the best Presidio has to offer, but that isn't saying much. We hadn't seen much in the way of wildlife until today. There are pronghorn sheep in the area and we glimpsed one not far off the road. I drug out my phone to take a photo but it trotted away just as I was aiming. Oh well. Tomorrow promises to be a hot, demanding day, with lots of very steep climbs as we follow the Rio Grande southeast toward Big Bend National Park. Tomorrow's destination: Terlingua.
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/766386770
 
May 6th - Presidio to Terlingua for 63 miles - climbing 4596; avg 12.9
weather: a few clouds, NW wind @ 5 to 10; start 66, end 102; max 109
 
This was a fantastic ride. We rode from Presidio along the Rio Grande to Lajitas and then away from the Rio Grande to our next overnight at Terlingua. The best part of the course was the part along the river. If anyone reading this ever has a chance to ride the river stretch, do it! The scenery is amazing and continues to amaze at every twist and turn of the road.  I wouldn't call it an easy ride due to the many steep rollers, most topping 10% gradient and some reaching 15% gradient. But using momentum to it's fullest potential, you can have fun on these rollers as you fly down (after the slow climb) and occasionally let momentum carry you over the next one without a pedal stroke. Mostly it wasn't like that of course but fun was to be had and great scenery replaced potential tedium with excitement of what would be revealed next! Once we reached Lajitas, We had several gradual climbs toward Terlingua, each culminating in a steep finale exceeding 10%. There was, though, a fantastic downhill on which I reached 40 mph in free fall before a final and most difficult climb before reaching Terlingua. This was our hottest day - sun temperature and reflection off pavement combining to give a high temperature of 109 twice during the ride.  
Terlingua is mostly a ghost town but there are a few inhabitants and there is a nice motel there, and restaurant, and a couple bars. Nothing else is around there, though, as is true of all this desert riding so the places we stayed were the only available. Anyway, it was a good day and more was to come.
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/771395720
 
May 7th - Terlingua to Big Bend National Park (Chisos Valley) for 51 miles - climbing 4951; avg 11.9
weather: sunny skies; W wind @ 10 - 15; start 59, end 100; max 104
 
This was another day of fantastic geologic scenery, flowers covering the adjacent valleys and hills, blooming cactus and the day we reached the National Park Boundary. The day had two destinations. The first was the lunch stop, a long climb to a ridge, with 10 to 12% gradients again, before reaching the ridge which commanded a great view of the surrounding deserts including the mountains of Mexico and features near the Rio Grande, about 15 "as the crow flies" miles away and about 2000 ft below. It was also quite warm, especially on those climbs, and we had a headwind on the climbs, as well. Lunch consisted of sandwiches made with baloney, cheese, mayo and peanut butter. Boy, choking down peanut butter in that dry air was a task. I can't say I particularly cared for that combination of ingredients, either. But it did provide needed calories as the steep climbs were not at an end for the day! Once lunch was done, we started back down those pesky hills as this was an out and back from the main road. I though those descents would be too steep to let it go, but they were straight, relatively smooth, with no traffic to speak of, and provided an exhilarating descent, never touching the brake. 47.5 was my maximum speed, never attempting to go aero or pedal it up faster - just gravity taking over! Once we reached the main road, we turned left, enjoyed some additional descending (and serious climbing) before reaching the next turnoff. Next destination was the Chisos Valley, sitting at an elevation of 5300 ft. I don't know the elevation at the beginning of the climb but it started off easy on a practically uninterrupted 5 mile climb which quickly ramped up to long stretches of 10, 11, 12, and 13% climbing. Also touched 14% and it was relentless! Finally reached the top and then flew down the 400 ft drop to the hotel. Check-in was available right away and we settled in, showered, had a beer, and got ready for our before dinner hike in the nearby mountains. Felt great on the hike and I knew I was well acclimated to the 5000 to 6000 ft elevations as it was easy. The only thing that marred this occasion, especially as the sun set toward the ring of mountains were the numerous flying and stinging insects, from 'no see-ums' to deer flies. This discouraged my attempt to wait out the sunset and I retreated to the room for another beer and early to bed to make up for missed sleep the night before.
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/771395744
 
May 8th - Big Bend National Park to Marathon for 78 miles - climbing 2638; avg 15.1
weather: sunny skies; W wind @ 10 - 15; start 68, end 106; max 108
 
We had a 400 ft climb out of the Chisos Valley in little more than a mile but on fresh legs, this wasn't that difficult. Then we enjoyed the massive descent back to the main road, turned right with more descending and some climbing before reaching the junction, at mile 9, with option to go down to the Rio Grande or north to Marathon. Our destination was Marathon. We now had miles more downhill, and tailwind, before finally bottoming near the National Park Boundary. This was also a very scenic day, with loads of flowers covering the ground and nearby hills as well as prickly pear blooming. The surrounding volcanic peaks showed several types of mountain building, ranging from shield type volcanoes, to composite volcanoes, to cinder cones - each type beautiful in their way. I was in the beginning stages of stomach upset, no idea what the issue was, but it did affect my ability to enjoy lunch and ride with my usual vigor. Ultimately we did reach Marathon, after what felt at times like a marathon. Hotel rooms were not ready so I went into a cafe and ordered a chocolate shake. This did not help my upset stomach but it really tasted good and was cold enough to offset the heat for a short while! Not long after, the rooms were ready and we moved our stuff in. This was the Gage Hotel, another fabulous place designed in the style of great New Mexico establishments. It was amazing, given the price of the tour, that rooms going for $259 a night could be included. But no complaints and I found the facilities to be excellent as well as beautiful!
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/771395791
 
May 9th - Marathon to Ft Davis for 54 miles - climbing 1778; avg 15.1
weather: fog, then clear skies; wind direction varied; start 64, end 77; max 82
 
Final day of the Big Bend trip: after enjoying our stay at the awesome Gage Hotel in Marathon, we concluded our trip by riding to Alpine, turning right, and then to Ft Davis. The scenery was not as interesting, and what was interesting, we had seen before. The main goal was to finish, shower, change, and have lunch and then drive home or to whatever destination was planned. I had a very upset stomach for some reason and was in partial agony for these last miles. This affected my pace but I was determined and did not let the discomfort stand in my way of completing the tour. The ride started out in pea soup fog, surprising in the desert. Eventually we climbed out of the valley and into some dryer air. The climbing was neither as intense as expected nor as intense as the last few days. Steepest gradient was only 8%. However, because I wasn't feeling well, I used the granny anyway. There was a headwind as well on the part from Alpine to Ft Davis. I finished, loaded up the bikes, and headed over to the lunch venue. The upset stomach was still with me and after we had wrapped up in Ft Davis, headed to Alpine (in the car) where there was a decent market. I bought some Pepto and that helped resolve the issue with the stomach. So, a great trip with a great group of folks from the Lone Star Cycling Club of Grand Prairie. I'm looking forward to next year's trip, now!
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/771395824
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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