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Brakes, relative stopping power (Read 507 times)
Opus the Poet
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Brakes, relative stopping power
Jul 9th, 2008, 7:15pm
 
I have a question about brakes and what I might need to do about them Angry My Stratus has some brake levers of uncertain provenance and lineage, hooked up to a set of Nashbar dual pivot long reach calipers squeezing Koolstop black compound pads. I used to use the salmon compound but tried the black and they stopped better in the dry so that's what I use now. If I squeeze the levers with all my strength I can get a pretty good decceleration, but the wheels do not lock. I used to just chalk this up to the rear wheel not unloading as much as my wedgie with caliper brakes.
 
Now when I ride Paul's EZ-1AX  I can lock up either wheel with 2 fingers, one finger on the back. No kidding I have to be super careful to keep from locking the back tire on Paul's old bike with the stock levers and brakes.
 
So, what's up? Am I running the wrong brake levers for caliper brakes and not getting the leverage I need to get the stopping power the law requires. I used to be able to lock up the back wheel on my old Raleigh english racer with single pivot side pulls and chrome steel rims, why can't I get similar stopping power from modern calipers running modern compound pads on aluminum rims?
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Bud_Bent
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Re: Brakes, relative stopping power
Reply #1 - Jul 9th, 2008, 10:06pm
 
If the Nashbar calipers are road brakes, you need to be using short pull levers. Most levers you will find are long pull levers, since that type of lever is made mainly for mountain bikes, and they are intended for V-brakes. I have used Avid Speed Dial levers, setting them for the shortest pull, and they work well. Levers intended for cantilever brakes are also short pull, and also work well. That's what I put on the Nimbus.
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« Last Edit: Jul 9th, 2008, 10:10pm by Bud_Bent »  

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