No, no don't do it, Patti! Think of all that extra weight. You can always find something to lean it on.  
 
Does this mean you have bought that red Musashi, or are very close to doing so?

Quote from Patti on Apr 2^nd, 2013, 3:35pm:

 
Welcome to the club. You're really going to like that bike. My Musashi is my bike for life.
 
The only Musashi owner I know that has a kickstand on his bike is Grady B. Called him and he told me he got his from Jack at RBM, Richardson. He said he thought it was a Cannondale product. It looks like this: http://www.cannondale.com/2012-eileen-2-kickstand-21898.
 
When you get the boom set for your X-seam check to be sure there are no crank strike issues. If there is any crank strike, you might want to install a 155 mm or shorter triple. Since I installed short cranks on my Musashi, I have not gone down on the bike. Used to be a regular occurrence.

Thanks, gentlemen. Those both look like good options. The Cannondale style is what I am hoping will work. Must better than those traditional greenfield types.  
 
Jay, I'm not certain I'm going to have to make any changes to the boom. It seems really close to just right, right now. I have no clue what size cranks are on it. I looked but didn't locate a size anywhere.

Quote from Patti on Apr 2^nd, 2013, 11:24pm:

 
Patti, if your crankset is the same as that in the below photo, it's the 165 mm SRAM Rival compact crankset (50T/34T) that was standard on the Musashi. Look on the backside of the crank arms, near the threaded pedal holes, and you will see "165" stamped in the metal.
 
The Musashi's horizontal rear stay is 32 mm in diameter and the upper stay 26 mm. The Cannondale kickstand looks exactly like the kickstand on Grady's Musashi, however, the specs for it say it is designed for flat-sided tubes up to 23 mm thick. Maybe RBM used longer screws to adapt the kickstand to Grady's bike.
 
 
 

Jay, this bike has a triple front (52-42-30), with an Origin 8 crankset. I looked where I expected to find a size, but only found a code: A09145. Mike must have made some changes for her when she bought it.  I'll just have to bring it by and let you look at it sometime.
 
Quote from jayg on Apr 3^rd, 2013, 1:05pm:

With all this chainring and tooth count talk, can you offer a riders simple versiion of what it all does?  
 
Here is GA, looks like I'm gonna be climbing A L.O.T. when I catually get back to riding (old/new house remodeling...)

Quote from JimFPU on Apr 4^th, 2013, 12:35pm:

 
When crank arms are shortened there is a loss of mechanical advantage. Going to lower tooth counts on the chainrings helps regain some of that lost advantage. Lower tooth count chainrings also let you ride on the smaller cogs of the cassette where the tooth counts are closer together. That way you don't bog down as much when you upshift, as you're trying to gain speed. With a 700cx28 tire and a 52T/15T gear combo, a theoretical velocity of 23 mph would be achieved at an 83 cadence. With a 48T/15T combo it would take a 90 cadence to achieve the same velocity. The general recommendation for a crankset with short crank arms is to spin it up. According to an article by Ken Mierke, titled: "Cycling Cadence and Pedaling Economy", spinning at higher cadences reduces the watts-per-pedal-stroke, and makes the workload more tolerable for the muscles. Works for me. Haven't noticed significant degradation of my performance, due to the short cranks. The main reason I went to short cranks was to stop the knee pain I was experiencing, which they did. Elimination of crank strike on my Musashi was a secondary benefit. Don't have any hip pain from going down on the bike, anymore.  
 
With your long and strong legs there would be no need for you to go to short cranks. Your best bet might be to install a mountain bike crankset (and/or mountain bike cassette), like Kenny and I did on his GRR. These cranksets have lower tooth count rings than a road bike triple has. A downside to installing one of these cranksets is you would probably spin out in the big ring, if you pedaled down steep hills, instead of coasting. Kenny's crankset didn't cost over $40 and the bottom bracket not over $30.