Don't unhook all the wiring and sensor for the computer/odometer, just either turn it away from you, or just remove the computer part (but store it where you remember where it is!)  

Don,
I am not really familar with what bike you have, however, I just read you have a "16 inch" front!
Since most front wheels are not related to much else, have you considered switching that complete front end with a bigger fork, wheel? Realling about your neck condition, feel it would raise your vision even more.
Shall try looking for a picture of your bike to see if it can be done safely.

The recommended fork for converting the EZ-1 to a 20" front wheel is the EZ Tandem fork, which I think is the same fork as the EZ-3 with the 20" option uses.
 

Hi Guys,  a little over 5 miles today.
 
WOW, I kinda feel like i opened a bag of worms with my last post : (
 
I am kinda looking at yesterdays ride as (Its Just part of it)  ya know. Im not the perfect canidate to be a rider of any type bicycle and I know i started on a entry level bike so there are some things to be expected so no biggie.  I honestly was just discribing the ride and there were some posative things there as well, I took a hill in 3rd gear : ) one that my first try just a few weeks ago i had to walk the bike up and then struggle and then take a break, im getting better one inch at a time.
 
The odometer that i complained about is a bell wireless one, i just unclipped the moniter part and put it in a drawer in the house.
 
Getting a 20 inch front tire, i think would be a good thing, but it probably is just something that i Think would be a good thing. doing some reading on the bike from others who have done it, there are plus and minus points about it. and the bike was build with the 16 so probably best to keep it as designed.
 
all of my riding has been on Blacktop / chip seal and some of it is the Bolder type as discribed in some of yawls posts.  By no means am i complaining, heck a month ago I was just dreaming of getting a recumbent bicycle and feeling the wind in my face and praying i could actualy ride it. Hck i have riddent the recumbent more this month than i have driven the car in the last 3 months : )
 
I would love to meet some of you guys but honestly i would be a total embarrasment riding with any of yawl right now and probably for several more months. I am slow in comparison to anyone right now, but i am getting fitter and faster!
 
I will keep this bike till i can build or buy something like this with 26 inch back tire and 20 or 26 front tire. looking at all the pics there are several bikes i know i can ride the one Paul has in his Pic and I think probably any LWB bike so eventualy it wont be a problem upgrading to one, i think there are alot of them out there.
 
Please dont take yesterdays post as complaining, it was just me going over some of the stuff that happened along the way. Im pretty happy to be on this board and to have met all of you guys on this board.  I know i have posted about my condition, besides having A.S. I have had 5 lower back surgerys and for a while i was paralized , for nearly after that i needed assistance walking and to go anywhere i had to have a scooter.
 
My biggest point is. This Bike is a life changer,sure many see its just a great ride, comfterble relaxing.....For me its more.
 
I want others to know it too. I know there are lots of disabled people that could benafit from this type bike.
 
Sorry about rambing,  
 
Thanks for reading,
Don

Don't sweat it Don. I'm one of those guys that just naturally likes to tinker with things and "improve" them. And I'm always on the lookout for hotrodding projects that other people have undertaken, just to see what they did and how they did it. I find the knowledge transfers to my own projects more than you might imagine.
 
FYI you can change the rake on forks 2 ways, by bending the fork tubes or by extending the dropouts forwards. If your fork is of the straight tube with offset dropouts like the BSO in wally world, you can just cut the existing dropouts of and weld on new ones that have more or less rake as you need it. If you add lots of rake you may need to move the wheel up a touch to keep the brakes in alignment with the rim. This is the method I use to make FWD forks as the BSO forks are extremely strong if you use 1/8" bar or plate to make the new dropouts, and that FWD needs less trail/more rake than bicycles that only use their front wheels to steer with  
 
For your bike get a fork off a BSO, and a 20" wheel you want to use, then mount the fork and find out how much rake you'll need to prevent your toes from hitting the tire, and make dropouts to fit. Then either cut off the old dropouts and weld the new dropouts to the fork, or you can use the old dropouts as doublers and weld the new ones to the fork and the old dropouts. You can convert your front to disk brakes at this time by incorporating the caliper mount into the left dropout, it makes even the fork off a BSO look high tech.

BSO= Bicycle Shaped Object, commonly found in discount stores and other outlets that sell other things besides bicycles.
 
Dropouts= those funny shaped pieces on the fork that hold the front wheel on.
 
Trail= the distance between the steering axis intersection with the ground and the ground patch of the tire. Distances behind the steering axis are positive trail.
 
Rake= the offset between the steering axis and the center of the front axle on a fork. Distances ahead of the steering axis are positive rake.
 
Rake and trail are related but not identical as rake, headtube inclination, and wheel diameter change the trail.

Quote from Opus the Poet on Oct 30^th, 2008, 9:57pm:

 
 
Yes, most riders at White Rock prefer the trail to be swept, not raked...