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https://rbentonline.org/YaBB.pl General Category >> rbent Lobby >> shifting gears https://rbentonline.org/YaBB.pl?num=1241492154 Message started by larry on May 4th, 2009, 9:55pm |
Title: shifting gears Post by larry on May 4th, 2009, 9:55pm Here is another dumb question from a newbie recumbent rider. I have a 24 speed Sun EZ-1 SX. Three gears at the front with the pedals and 8 gears on the back wheel. I ride to work over a set of easy rolling hills, along Bowen from Sublett to Mayfield in Arlington. Normally I keep the front gear on the middle and just use the back ones, 6 or 7 of them on most days. So what is the optimum pattern for using the gears? When would I do well to switch the front gear? Thanks for enlightening me! Larry [smiley=dankk2.gif] |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by FlyingLaZBoy on May 5th, 2009, 9:51am larry wrote:
May I suggest that there isn't an "optimum pattern" as such, simply because it's dependent upon the terrain your encountering at the time, and your particular ability to keep the pedals spinning... But for the situation you describe, you're doing the right thing by staying in the middle ring! If you can keep your pedal rotation up and avoid "mashing" too much, you're fine. I have an EZ1, and the 20" wheels naturally give you a somewhat lower "gear-inch" range for climbing, although the bike is heavy. The "cross-chain" wear issue, where you're in the gear extremes (big ring up front, big ring in back, or vice versa) is really more of a problem on DF bikes, with their "standard length" chain -- there is about 18" of center-to-center distance between front and back gears on a DF, but you've got almost 2.5 X that distance, so the relative angle of the chain is reduced. If, while climbing, you find yourself staying in the largest rear gears for what seems to be a significant amount of time, and you occasionally have to mash at the low end while climbing, feel free to shift into the "granny" gear up front for that section -- you'll essentially gain an extra two lower gears (just watch that your chain doesn't drop off the gear to the inside -- check your derailleur limit screw setting). And same with the opposite scenario -- if you're always in 7 or 8 on a flat or downhill section, shift to the big ring if you like! But personally, I wouldn't worry too much about "optimum" or cross-chaining wear... It's really a personal preference, tied to how adept you feel at shifting the front chainring -- because to shift to the granny while climbing requires you to slightly reduce your pedaling pressure to allow the chain to release from the larger gear. So stay in the middle ring, and be happy! [smiley=thumbsup.gif] |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by shellenefoster on May 5th, 2009, 10:12am When I started riding, I was pretty clueless. Now I'm just less clueless [smiley=wink.gif]. Things I have learned: The gears on the front are typically refered to as "Chain rings", and the gears on the rear "Cogs". The df guys call 3 chainrings on the front a "triple". As for shifting, I have found that as a newbie, living in the middle chain ring is not that bad as long as you are riding on gentle terrain. As a general rule, you want to focus on your cadence for shifting purposes. If you find that your feet are going around really slowly, your leg muscles are starting to hurt,and you are out of cogs, that's the time to shift into the "little" chainring. If you find that you are spinning your feet as fast as possible, you are not feeling any force on the pedals, and you are out of cogs, that's the time to shift into the "big" chainring. So, if you know an upcoming hill is going to hurt, at some point, shift down to the little chainring and spin your feet faster (higher cadence) so that it hurts less. When I shift down to the little chainring, I simultaneously shift "up" one cog so that my cadence is not so greatly changed. This all takes a little experience to get the feel of it, and you should start experimenting with your chainrings now so that when you need them you are certain to do the right thing. I'm pretty sure the guys can give better advice, and I am looking forward to reading their responses. Shellene |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by FlyingLaZBoy on May 5th, 2009, 11:02am You've got it, Shellene.... Here's a drawing I put together a while back, comparing the EZ1 chainline to a DF bike... Again, the primary concern, as such, with "cross-chaining" is wear of the gear teeth and chain links due to friction from being out of line, and (very) minor effects from loss of power. You can see that, on most 'bents, cross-chaining ain't no big thang compared to a DF chainline, because the angle is significantly reduced.... But in general, it's still a sound idea to avoid the maximum gearing opposites of "granny/11T" and "BigRing/32T"... (but not critical) http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g73/flyinglazboy/GearExtremesChainline.jpg Also, trigonometrically and statically speaking, on a DF you lose about 0.12% of your power transmission strictly due to the angle of the chain (excluding friction components) when you're at gear extremes -- but with 42" between your front and rear gears, it is about 0.02% (if I've done the math right, Shellene?)... So as I said, "It ain't no thang..." [smiley=thumbsup.gif] |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by Bud_Bent on May 5th, 2009, 11:19am shellenefoster wrote:
Actually, that was very good explanation, Shellene. I'm not sure I could have said it that well. Larry, if you want lots of technical info, you can find it on Sheldon Brown's shifting page (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html), but Shellene summed up the practical part of it well. |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by Kwijybow on May 5th, 2009, 1:21pm I know when I push the lever one way it gets easier, and the other way it gets harder, except on the bikes I have no lever, then it just just gets easier and harder. ;) |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by evblazer on May 5th, 2009, 3:24pm If I had a triple I'd be riding in the middle chainring all day except when it was flat or downhill and I was trying to sprint. As it is I just have a double so I'm in the smaller of my rings all day so what you are doing in the terrain you describe doesn't seem off. Eventually you might find you run out of gearing on the downhill portion of the rolling hills and then you could put it in the big chainring but many times I'll just pedal to keep my legs moving and wait the few seconds for it to flatten out and climb to begin yet again instead of shifting for a few seconds. There are definately a few hills with the weight i'm pulling, not just the bike, that it might be nice to have a little bit easier gearing that a triple chainring or a larger cassette in back would offer but I've gotten by so far with only one or two walks after very long days. Nelson the worst for me is when I switch between my road bike and my touring bike. On one I push the little lever to get easier on the other I push the big lever to get easier. I always forget that till I'm towing a full load of groceries and think I'm shifting one way as I stop at a light :-[ |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by aikigreg on May 5th, 2009, 3:55pm Yeah it kinda ends being individual by feel. Here's how I used to do it when learning: if I have 9 cogs in the back and 3 in the front. I did it this way: downhills - big ring in froint, small 3 cogs in back flats - middle ring in front, middle 3 cogs in back uphills - small in front, big 3 cogs in back But I now do it all by feel, based on what I know my body likes. |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by FlyingLaZBoy on May 5th, 2009, 7:07pm shellenefoster wrote:
Perhaps, but still pretty... 8-) |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by FlyingLaZBoy on May 5th, 2009, 7:11pm evblazer wrote:
And, Lord help us, this always does seem to be the case!!!! [smiley=smiley.gif] [smiley=engel017.gif] |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by larry on May 5th, 2009, 10:26pm Thanks guys, and Shellene. This is really helpful input. Your patience with the dumb questions is exemplary! On another note, [smiley=wink.gif]Riding a recumbent really draws attention doesn't it? Most of the time it is positive.... |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by shellenefoster on May 6th, 2009, 6:52am FlyingLaZBoy wrote:
Excellent diagram! Thanks for sharing [smiley=thumbsup.gif] Shellene |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by FlyingLaZBoy on May 6th, 2009, 10:32am larry wrote:
It's not a dumb question at all, simply a common one for relatively new riders to ask! And yes, it's hard to be an introvert on a 'bent.... at least work on your "Queen's hand wave and nod" technique... :D |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by evblazer on May 6th, 2009, 10:52am FlyingLaZBoy wrote:
Hmm.. Maybe that is the real reason I like the Hurricane. It is too low to really talk to anyone so I can just give a little wave or nod and never have to talk to any other cyclists, at least non-recumbent ones [smiley=whistling.gif] But yeah beware of where you stop and plan your time accordingly sometimes when I lockup I get alot of attention and questions which can hold up my schedule when I'm running errands or getting my wife lunch. |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by irodguy on May 6th, 2009, 3:40pm Well there is another reason to have a "low racer" style bike. I was being following (a bit to closely) by a fellow in Florida and had to stop for a car. He could not unclip fast enough and went down. He was so low that he suffered no damage and was perfectly okay. On a Strada he likely would have been road kill. |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by jcsadowski on May 6th, 2009, 3:45pm Quote:
That is not a reason. He just didn't know how to unclip quickly. It takes a lot pratice to be able to unclip without thinking about it. |
Title: Re: shifting gears Post by aikigreg on May 6th, 2009, 3:50pm irodguy wrote:
Why? Why does falling down on a lowracer make you safer from traffic than on any other bike? |
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